This year’s PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival (PMFF) was a 15-day-long parade of emerging and established Australian designers spanning over 100 unique events. Premium runways were staged inside Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building against the backdrop of the news that Victoria is Australia’s fashion manufacturing capital. The Australian Fashion Council announced at the festival that the Victorian textile, clothing and footwear (TCF) manufacturing sector creates $960 million in econom
economic value and employs 10,300 people – more than any other state in the country.
PMFF’s programme didn’t shy away from fashion’s biggest issues, with runways intentionally themed to have them strut the catwalk instead of being reserved for frow chatter.
Standout runways included but were not limited to the National Graduate Showcase, Thread Lightly, F*** The Invisible, Block Party, Emerging Mob in Fashion, and Suit Up.
The lineup of brands and designers mirrored back a reflection of an industry that is trying to lead consumer trends while creating sustainable solutions.
Spotlighting the silver economy
Inclusivity and diversity are themes that PMFF rallies around festival after festival but this year the programme of premium runways included a show to make the unseen seen.
The F*** The Invisible runway styled women in their 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s and beyond to disprove the notion that fashion and personal style have an age limit.
Caroline (Ralph) Ralphsmith, PMFF CEO, told Inside Retail the response has been “incredibly inspiring. From the participating designers and models, through to the industry and of course, our festival-goers, we were overwhelmed by the excitement and support for this amazing showcase of how you can be fabulous and stylish no matter your age.”
“Celebrating women of all ages seems to be a given – showcasing to them and to the world that you can reject that notion of taking a back seat and becoming invisible as you get older,” said Ralphsmith.
This reflects what marketers have described as the ‘silver economy’ – the fashion industry is guilty of leaving a considerable revenue on the table that could be brought in by including the Baby Boomer generation.
For Dr Foula Kopanidis, associate professor in marketing at RMIT University, stores and brands alike stand to gain from Baby Boomer consumers.
“With an average accumulated net worth of $381,100 per person, they own more than half of Australia’s national wealth – and they like to spend it,” said Kopanidis.
“[Baby Boomers] resist cultural stereotypes associated with ageing and strongly reject ageist labels and caricatures,” she added.
Ageism was not an issue at PMFF, where mature-aged models took centre stage for the F*** The Invisible runway, walking the catwalk in looks designed by the likes of Perple, Verber, Julie Goodwin, Viceta Wang and Banded Together.
“We look forward to continuing to shatter stereotypes that women become invisible as they age and champion self-expression through fashion in years to come,” concluded Ralphsmith.
A case for circular fashion
Secondhand clothing was featured on PMFF’s Thread Lightly runway with the addition of Goodbyes, a resale service and secondhand shopping experience with six stores across the country.
The Goodbyes runway broke with the fashion festival’s typical “see now, buy now” approach and instead offered a moment of styling inspiration.
Circular fashion is one of those industry buzzwords that designers, brands and consumers are still working out how to integrate into their lives, but Goodbyes has a clear model.
“By showcasing Goodbyes on the premium MFF runway, we’re highlighting the desirability of pre-loved fashion, challenging traditional perceptions and paving the way for a more sustainable future in fashion,” co-director of Goodbyes, Olivia Magnan, told Inside Retail.
The inclusion of secondhand fashion at Australia’s largest consumer event underscores for the Goodbyes team the growing recognition of the role consigned clothing is playing in moving the fashion industry towards sustainability.
Goodbyes head of marketing, Julian Bettoli, curated a selection of garments from the retailer’s Melbourne stores including hero pieces from international designers like Miu Miu, Prada, Proenza Schouler and Dior, as well as one-of-a-kind vintage pieces and local labels.
“It can be difficult to identify a particular aesthetic that defines Goodbyes. We consign such a variety of styles and pieces, which reflects our diverse shopping and selling communities – Goodbyes is for everybody,” Bettoli told Inside Retail.
“To my knowledge, it’s the first time a reseller has presented on a PMFF Premium Runway – it’s amazing to see how the landscape has changed in such a short period of time,” he added.
The runway curated by the Goodbyes team and styled by Joseph Leone struck a chord with fashion enthusiasts and insiders alike, signalling an industry shift towards conscious consumption.
Monique Thomas, co-director of Goodbyes, told Inside Retail, “Rarity and distinctiveness frequently underscore the value of high-end fashion. It’s a quality that secondhand clothing does so well, all while being environmentally friendly and available at accessible price points.”
Power dressing a new generation
PMFF’s opening Triumphant runway featured plenty of structured suiting, something Australia’s premium and luxury brands, including Oroton, Viktoria & Woods, Aje and Bianca Spender, are known for.
However, the Suit Up runway offered something more than just neutral tones and clean lines with a lineup of sharp brands including Silk Laundry.
Silk Laundry’s collections are typically centred around classic designs that transcend the undulations of what is currently deemed ‘in fashion’ and the brand’s interpretation of suiting was no exception.
Katie Kolodinski, founder of Silk Laundry, told Inside Retail, “I hope Silk Laundry added a fresh perspective to suiting. As a brand, comfortability and practicality are just as important for the sustainability of the garment, so ensuring our styles are wearable is significant.”
“We have bold patterns and colours – and also more traditional colourways like midnight, white and greys. By showing the hybrid of bold colour ways like Absinthe with black or neutrals it showcases different kinds of suiting for corporate or casual settings too,” she added.
Silk Laundry’s garments, including its suiting, are created to last from both a design and material perspective – placing emphasis on high-quality natural materials that are gentle on the environment and feel good for wearers.
Power dressing is a long-running theme in theme and conversation in the fashion industry but Kolodinski looks to empower consumers with designs that account for the product’s lifecycle and the consumer’s lifecycle.
“Our pieces are also not influenced by trends and typically stem from items lacking in my own wardrobe and their ability to be paired with existing items in my closet,” stated Kolodinski.
The brand which prioritises longevity was eager to demonstrate its considered approach to fashion on the PMFF runway.
Silk Laundry views suiting as a foundational part of a modern wardrobe that while a pragmatic purchase also encourages creativity with styling which could help provoke conversations about fashion consumption.
“I think this and my gravitation towards classic styles with something strange, fun or slightly weird has undeniably influenced the distinctive aesthetic of the brand. Nevertheless, with new styles, I consider the customer,” she concluded.